Trekking Barris

Friday, December 13, 2013

Bhutan Overview

Words cannot express how amazing my trip to Bhutan (and Bangkok) was with my Dad.  I have been studying meditation/Buddhism and there are definitely emotions and whole body experiences that are greater than the mind can comprehend let alone explain in a few words.  The best part of my trip was truly spending time with my Dad doing what we both love - adventure travel - while we can and while Bhutan remains untouched by tourism.  The biggest thanks for the experience however does go out to my loving husband who helped conceive of the idea realizing firsthand how strong and important the father-daughter bond is, and for taking care of our two beautiful daughters.  Love and gratitude for our health, time, and the opportunity to see such an amazing country and place where the Gross National Happiness is most important. 

Here is our Bhutan itinerary:

Day 1  JOIN PARO
Day 2  IN PARO
Day 3  DRIVE TO HAA VALLEY
Day 4  TO THIMPHU
Day 5  MORNING HIKE TO TANGO & CHERI MONASTERY
Day 6  CROSS DOCHU LA TO WANGDI
Day 7  TO TRONGSA
Day 8  TO BUMTHANG
Day 9  IN BUMTHANG
Day 10 TANGSIBI, CROSS SHERTANG LA TO URA VALLEY
Day 11 RETURN TO WANGDI
Day 12 R ETURN TO PARO VIA LOBESA
Day 13 V ISIT TO DRUGYEL DZONG
Day 14  TRIP CONCLUDES

We had a couple days on either side in Bangkok with our daily itinerary including:  Royal Benja Hotel fabulous buffet breakfast, Thai foot and/or full body massage,  sightseeing, shopping, fabulous food, and backpacker bar for a beer (or two!).  Dates of our trip Nov. 20, 2013 - Dec. 10, 2013. 

Below is the detailed itinerary from the World Expedition website: 

This unique itinerary is packed with cultural experiences and a blend of varied day walks which will appeal to those who like to keep active whilst engaging with the rich culture and history that Bhutan has to offer. Beginning our journey in the serene Paro Valley we visit the famous Taktsang Monastery and museum before transferring by road to the Haa Valley. Here we take a walk to the Kila Gompa with views of the sacred Chomolhari peak. We have the unique experience of an overnight stay in a farmhouse before continuing over the Dochu La to Wangduephodrang where our accomodation is at a delightful lodge by the river. We visit the well known Gangtey Valley and from here we enter central Bhutan, well known for it’s many monasteries and dzongs. We spend some time exploring Trongsa and it’s dzong, and cross the 3590 metre Shertang La to gain entry to the Ura Valley. The return jouney to Paro is just as magnificent as we retrace our steps back to Paro to conclude a memorable journey in the land of the thunder dragon.

Day 1  Join Paro We fly in to Paro with Druk Air, Bhutan’s national airline, and after clearing customs and immigration, we’re met by our group leader. There will be a pre-trip briefing on arrival at the hotel, followed by an afternoon/evening at leisure in Paro, to allow some acclimatisation; Paro is 2280m above sea level. Overnight at Kyichu Resort on the banks of the Paro Chhu (Paro River).

Day 2  In Paro, We drive to the foot of the Taktsang Monastery - the famous Tigers Nest Monastery said to have been one of the divine resting places of the Guru Ringpoche. However, although much of the building was once destroyed by fire it is now restored and it is still worthwhile to ascend the walking trail to appreciate the monasteries breathtaking location on a cliff edge about 800 metres above the valley floor. The rest of the day is free to complete sightseeing and purchases before our early morning departure the following day. 

Day 3  Drive to Haa Valley After breakfast we drive towards the Haa valley. Just about 45 minutes before reaching Chele La pass, we come to a junction from where we start our hike to Kila gompa. It is about an hour walk uphill to the Kila nunnery. We can stop at the spot below Kila Gompa, a nunnery perched on a steep cliff face at 3500m. This staggering site manages to house 7 small temples and about 70 nuns. Views are magnificent and it is well worth the hour’s hike to get there. From Kila gompa we ascend about 2hrs uphill to a point marked by hundreds of prayer flags (Chelela pass 3750 m). During clear day from the pass, there is a magnificent view of sacred Mt. Chomolhari(7329m) which is located between the Bhutan & Tibetan border, TigerNest, part of Haa & Paro valley.  We then proceed to Haa valley. As we descend further we can see the square yellow roof of the main monastery/fortress, Namgyal Dzong which is now used as a military base. Haa town lies a few kms further to the north-west and is really quite attractive with traditional two story shops lined in 2 rows. We also visit Lhakhang Nagpo and Karpo which now serve as seats for monastic community in Haa. Overnight Haatoe farmhouse.

Day 4  To Thimphu Today we follow an old trading trail that leads to the Tibetan border via an Army Camp and Yak herders’ huts that should take us about 2 hours to an elevation of 3250m. A light lunch will be served here so we shall have enough time to study the lore of a herder’s life, the raising of yak, their grazing habits, the milking and the process of churning of butter and the making of cheese. Afternoon we shall take the lower road along first the Haa Chhu and after the confluence with the Wang Chhu, along the latter towards the capital at Thimphu, 115kms to the East a drive of about 3-4 hrs. Enroute we stop at Dogar Dobji Dzong, a 16th century structure, built by the brother of the Divine Madman, Drukpa Kinley. Legend has it that the statue of the Guru Landrachen housed here, complained when the apostate Tibetan monarch Langdharma tried to smash it with a hammer. This dzong became Bhutan’s first jail in 1976 but has since returned to its monastic origins.

Day 5  Morning hike to Tango & Cheri Monastery Tango Monastery - The trail to the Goemba is a climb of 280m & takes about half an hour if you follow the steeper shortcut, or about an hour if you take the longer, more gradual trail. Lama Gyalwa Lhanampa founded the goemba in the 12th century. The present building was built in the 15th century by the ‘Divine Madman’, Lama Drukpa Kunley. Cheri Goemba - A short distance beyond the turn-off to Tango Goemba the roads end at Dodina. A walk of about 1 1/2 hours leads to Cheri Goemba. Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, built this goemba in 1620 & established the first monk body here. A silver chorten inside the goemba holds the ashes of the Shabdrung’s father. Afternoon visit Memorial Chorten, Changangkha monastery, Handicraft centers and free time in the market for shopping.

Day 6  Cross Dochu La to Wangdi A drive of approximately 45 minutes brings us to the Dochu La pass (3000m). From here we walk about an hour downhill to Lamperi (2700m). During spring season the forest is covered with lots of rhododendrons, Magnolia & Daphne flowers. We visit the Royal Botanical Park at Lamperi before driving 1 1/2 hrs to Wangduephodrang (locally known as “Wangdi”). *On the 24th June 2012, the beautiful Wangduephodrang Dzong was completely destroyed by fire. It was one of the oldest and most substantial dzongs in Bhutan built in 1638. Renovations were underway when the fire started and so most of the historic relics had been put into storage and were saved from the devastation of the fire. Re-building is already underway to restore the dzong to its former glory.

Day 7  To Trongsa Afteran early breakfast drive 2 hours to Gangtey. Visit Gangtey monastery,which is the only Ningmapa monastery in Bhutan. We then start our Gangtey nature trail walk which can take 2-4 hrs. This is the most beautiful and shortest of the existing nature trails. From Gangtey monstery the walk heads south and ends over the meandering chhu Nap ( Black river) near Khewang village. Afternoon visit the Black necked crane observation center & then drive 3 1/2 hours to Trongsa.

Day 8  To Bumthang Today we walk from the Trongsa Dzong view point to Trongsa Dzong (1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours). This hiking route is also referred to as “old” historical route and will add to the experience of tourists traveling to Trongsa. The steep and dense forest has a huge variety of fauna and flora. The traditional cantilever bridge offers great photographic opportunities. Visit Trongsa Dzong and Tronsga museum before driving to Bumthang.

Day 9  In Bumthang We take a short walk to nearby Tamshing & Kunchusom monastery and a further 30 minutes to Kurjey lhakhang. This lhakhang is a complex of three temples, on the right beneath a giant cypress tree, the main temple was built in 1652 by Minjur Tempa, Trongsa Penlop. This temple houses the cave where Guru Rimpoche had meditated and left his body imprint. The middle temple was built by the First King of Bhutan during his tenure as Trongsa Penlop in 1900. The third temple is recently constructed under patronage of Her Majesty queen mother Ashi Kesang Wangmo Wangchuk and is located opposite Kurjey Lhakhang on the other side of the river. If was built by Terton Perma Lingpa. We then walk to Jambay lhakhang where one of the most sacred festivals of Jambay Lhakhang Drup takes place every year. We finish the day with a drive towards Jakar Dzong. The road to the dzong starts near the junior high school and climbs westwards to a parking lot. The final approach to the dzong is made on foot along a stone-paved path.

Day 10  Tangsibi, Cross Shertang La to Ura Valley The few houses and potato fields that make up Tangsibi is 24 km from Bumthang. The road climbs to 3420m, where there is a monument with a cross, in memory of a Indian road supervisor who died here in a 1985 road accident. The road finally crosses Shertang La pass (3590m), also known as Ura la (Ura pass). It’s then a long descent into the Ura valley to the Ura village which lies below the road. The descent on foot from the pass makes for a nice hour-long walk into the village.

Day 11  Return to Wangdi The return drive to Wangdi is no less enjoyable and offers a different perspective of the beautiful forest and mountain scenery.

Day 12  Return to Paro via Lobesa Drive to Lobesa and take a short walk through farm houses and fields to Chimme Lhakhang. This monastery was built in the 15th century and dedicated to the famous Lam Drukpa Kunley or divine mad man. He is one of the most famous saints in Bhutan and his temple is visited mostly by childless couples. We then visit the Punakha Dzong, built strategically at the Junction of Pho Chu and Mo Chu rivers in 1637 to serve as the religious and administrative centre of the region. We return to Paro this evening, a drive of approx. 4-5 hrs. We visit the ruined fortress of Drukyel Dzong (“dzong” means fortress-monastery), which still attracts visitors due to its imposing location. The fort defended the Paro Valley from invasion by Tibet in the early 17th century. On a clear day, Mt Chomolhari (7320m) can be seen towering over the dzong. In the afternoon we drive to the Uma Resort and walk through pine forests past the tiny monastery of Gemjola to the fortress-like monastery of Zuri Dzong. Traverse across to Ta Dzong, housing Bhutan’s National Museum and on to Rinpung Dzong. The trail then leads across Paro Chhu River via a traditional covered bridge and into Paro town.

Day 14  Trip concludes After breakfast our trip concludes with a transfer to the airport for onward arrangements.

Country Information:
 Bhutan is a small, independent Buddhist kingdom situated on the eastern side of the Himalaya about 300km long by 150kms wide. It is bordered with India, (Sikkim, Assam, West Bengal, Arunachal Pradesh), China (Tibet) and Bangladesh. Virtually the entire country is mountainous, ranging in elevation from 100m in the south to the 7544m Kulha Gangri peak on the northern border. It receives more rainfall than any other Himalayan region, and on average half to two metres of precipitation falls annually in the foothills and mountains. This ensures a lush and diverse flora from small orchids to enormous conifers and rhododendrons, and the country’s small population (approx 600,000), their religious beliefs as practising Buddhists, and a protective government has allowed the wilderness to be well preserved. There are hundreds of unique species of plants and animals to be found here. Most of the people of Bhutan originate from the north (Tibet) and practise a Buddhism similar to that region yet it has it’s own unique beliefs and practises. It is officially called Drukpa Kagyu, and includes practising their faith and traditions of art, dance, drama and various crafts including weaving, carpentry, metalwork and painting. It is obvious that the culture and history is rich in Bhutan, and the foresight of the late King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck who is succeeded by his son, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck to develop and maintain a program that is for the betterment of
the people and the land rather than a quick financial return, is an encouraging sign to a sound future.

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