October 19-21 Dhulikhel to Kathmandu

We stood in line trying to leave Tibet for about 3 hours on the morning of the 19th and then drove for about 10 minutes dodging buses, people, and other obstacles through no-man's-land until we got near the Nepal-side. There we carried all our stuff across the border (customs and immigation) (and the river which is the divider) and hopped on another bus. Most other travellers were in 4WD vehicles, but we were in a bus that nearly toppled over in the potholes. Actually Brett told us that our Nepali guide was actually in a bus the week prior that did roll over. 5 hours and 90 km later we were at Dhulikhel.

Dhulikhel is a small town set in the hills of the Kathmandu valley about 30k from Kathmandu. The hotel was superb. Not a resort by normal standards, but compared to the Jail Cells - heaven. The food excellent, views, balconies, TVs with HBO - complete relaxation. We spent 2 nights there. Yesterday during the day the manager from the hotel took us on a walk through the countryside which was neat. We went past a school that was playing games outside - including cock fights (boys hold one ankle behind their back and jump around on one leg trying to knock each other over) and saree racing (girls tie on a saree as fast as they can and then run - not holding it - down the other end of the field). We also got to ride on top of a few local buses like the Nepali do on our way to Panauti to see a Hindu temple. While Tibet was Buddhist, Nepal is 85% Hindu. The hotel manager spent some time talking about the different Gods and explaining the caste system.

At Panauti we actually got to see a cremation at a holy Ghat. The temple there is considered to be very sacred because 3 rivers merge there (1 underground and 2 above ground). When we got to the temple we saw the beginning of the cremation procession. The body was carried down by presumably his two sons (it was a man because we could see pants on the body) and they circled the pile of wood logs 3 times before setting it down. They then said some things and lit the mouth on fire which flamed high - they must have put an accelerant inside the mouth. Then they lit the head and started to light the wood beneath. The sons then bathed in the river and sat waiting. Afterward they would shave their heads except for one lock and then wear light clothes, not eat food prepared outside the household and do a series of other things for mourning. It was interesting and we all sat watching for about 20 minutes. Our guide said that the body would take a few hours to burn. Children (under 2 years) are not burned when they die because they are thought to still be pure so instead their bodies are weighted down in the river. Previews of what we'll see in Varanasi, India.

Today, after 2 days of great food and room service, we drove into Kathmandu. The food here is great! We've already eaten 4 donuts and had real Italian food for lunch. Tonight is the last supper with the group. Tomorrow our flight leaves at 11:15 for Lukla. The plan is to hike up to the Nepal EBC and then possibly do a few side trips before heading back. We don't know if we'll have internet on the trail and will be back to KTM in 15-25 days. We are leaving books here and extra things so our packs are really light - yay!

Love you all and look forward to hearing more comments/emails on our return. Liz and Jeff