October 1, Labrang

The overnight train from Xian to Lanzhou in Gansu province was quiet - no beer cart or party car. Instead, thanks to Liz's brother John, Jeff and I were entertained with an Ipod and electronic Sudoko game.

We arrived in Lanzhou, which is touted to be the world's most polluted city by the Lonely Planet, at 7 AM. We actually didn't think it was that bad however, the city is near the Yellow River and borded by two mountain ranges so we imagine that at certain times of year it could be worse.

We had an all-you-can eat buffet for 10 yuan (just about $1) right next to the train station for breakfast which was suprisingly good. Normally one would think a cheap meal next to train station would be horrible.

We took a 7-hour bus ride with our own private bus and driver to Labrang (which is the Tibetan name). We actually passed by the old Tibet/Chinese border; however today Tibet occupies a much smaller region. We are now in the Xiahe province. We drove through grasslands and a lot of muslim areas to get here. We are at about 2920 meters. Jeff also used China's nastiest toilet; Liz had fortunately timed it so that she could skip that pit stop. It was pretty bad. Jeff's face kept cortorted for about 30 minutes following. Ha!

Our hotel here is great - very colorful and run by Tibetans. When we arrived young girls, about 4'5" in height started grabbing our packs to carry up to our rooms - two packs on at a time - with lots of smiles on their faces. We were amazed by their strength and warmth. Last night our local guide met us to take us around the Cora (which is walked clockwise) and is a series of large prayer wheels that the Buddhists spin to send prayers up to the heavens. Each wheel was decorated the same and very ornate. There were probably 400 or so, and we walked around in a large square. At each corner there was a massive wheel that they walk around three times.

We then walked around the outside of the Labrang monastery which is one of the 6 most important monasteries for Buddhists. It was founded in 1709 and had nearly 4000 monks, but now closer to 1200. Last night we saw a lot of them, about 100, chanting. It was funny because there were "bad" monks in the back standing doing their prostrations (where they have to lie down and chant) without their top robe on. Today we will tour the inside of the monastery and then travel 3-4 hours to Lagmusi where we will stay at a homestay.

It was a little chilly last night and Jeff and Liz broke out the sleeping bag. We feel prepared for the colder weather ahead. This morning for breakfast we had the famous yak yogurt. Jeff isn't a fan of yogurt to begin with so this was an experience. Jeff nearly yaked watched Liz try it, needless to say, he didn't try it himself.

We need to meet the group soon, so will sign off. Hope all is well with each of you. Love Liz and Jeff